XXL On The Rock.

Monday, January 18th, 2010  Posted by stuart

Daveys Wavey Gravy Train 10.17.10

It’s been such a glutton-fest for big wave surfers round here lately, that most of the more prominently known of them seem to have headed off to California and beyond, chasing other big wave dreams. The most recent Waimea swell was a clear example of this with no pro surfers that I saw. Heaps of local underground crewout though, making the most of the rare opportunity to surf Waimea without the added pressure of a dozen pro big wave surfers or 2.

Lately though, there has been so much big swell that on the smaller days there is so much randomness to the waves. It’s rarely what you call quality on the in between days. It only stays small for about a day at this time of the year, so there are a lot of weird factors that effect the waves.
Yesterday afternoon had a fast rising west swell of significant timing. Something like 13 feet – 25 seconds. Combine that with a still languishing 6 foot north swell, and just about every wave was a weird double up, adventure into the unknown. This morning started out looking promising with groomed looking lines marching in from the horizon, but as it got lighter, it became apparent that it’s another one of those days that are so common at this time of the year. Too small for Waimea but too big for everywhere else. My wife is dedicated to surfing Pipe and she’s going crazy, jonesing for real Pipe again. It’s actually been quite a while since we saw any real consistent quality Pipe. I’d like to add that any of the images that you see are available for pruchase. Just send an email to info@seandavey.com

Aloha

Sean